Monday, October 19, 2009

Green Goa, Pink City, Golden Fort, Brahmin Blue

As I'm sure you've noticed, I have fallen behind on the blogging. So now, I will put things in to fast forward. After Mumbai we took a train to Goa. We were really looking forward to relaxing on the beach, and taking it easy for a week. We definately relaxed, but easy it was not.

Goa was very lush and green; a tropical paradise. We soon realized that the reason it was so lush and green was the rain. And not just normal rain, more of a late and long awaited for monsoonal rain. Our laundry took 4 days to dry, and still it was never actually dry. I also finally understand how useful "dusting powder" can be. But I am glad to have experienced a hint of monsoon. We also had some quick but exciting outings where we rented a scooter and explored beaches, markets, an old fort and a cool carving of Shiva's face in a rock.

Next, we flew up to Jaipur in Rajasthan. If there's one thing I like about the desert, it's being dry. Jaipur was loud, dirty, and smelled more like bathroom than any bathrooms I've ever been to. Everywhere. We explored the old town dubbed the "pink city" and it was certainly pink. We wandered through the endless markets (with absolutely everyone else in Jaipur as it was prime "shopping for Diwali" time) We also went to a few really cool forts: Amber and Nahargarh, the Water Palace and Galwar Bagh Temple (also called the monkey temple) where we saw 60 or so monkeys. I think monkeys are one of the only animals I'm a bit intimidated by (I've had a few encounters, one which included my elbow and a monkey's mouth) so multiply that intimidation by 60....they are very unpredictable! We also saw a cow with 6 legs...pictures hopefully coming soon!

After the pink city, we went far east into the Thar desert to Jaisalmer: the golden city. This was a much smaller town situated in and around a towering fortress. There is much controversy about the fort still being in use, what with overcrowding and drainage issues, but the fact that it has an ongoing purpose is what made it so loveable. The streets are narrow and winding and full of tailors, leatherwork, mirrorwork and embroidery. But what most people come to Jaisalmer for is the camel safaris. We decided to do a half day tour starting mid afternoon, ending up on the top of the dunes in time for sunset. There wasn't another person anywhere in sight. After sunset we were invited to sit with some chai and watch the preparation of our dinner. Rice, dahl, veg, and chapathi all fantastically cooked by fire. We sat under the stars and enjoyed some much needed silence, until our guide finished off the night with drumming and songs about rain. It was the best thing we've done so far.

As you've guessed from the title, we must now be headed to the blue city: Jodhpur. Originally, only the highest caste Brahmins could paint their house blue. But nowadays, all are indigo blue. We only had one night, which was just enough time to see another fort, a clocktower, and shop around for spice.

By this time, I am finally feeling at ease with "incredible India", the noise, the dirt, the crowded streets and traffic and loving every minute of it.

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